This old Scoffer has long been a fan of Super Nanny Pinot Noir from Central Otago in New Zealand. It's one of those Pinot's I keep going back for when I want something quintessentially 'Central' - bold, dark, ethereal and splendidly plummy.
The Nanny Goat Cross Breed is a skin contact wine, slotting happily into the natural/orange movement, and is a blend of 54% Gewurtztraminer, 40% Pinot Gris and 6% Pinot Noir. Hand on heart, I was never a fan of this whole natural movement in its early days. Everything smelled like rotten mushrooms and vile old shoes. I am a convert now. I am also a fan of Alan Peters-Oswald, the winemaker. Cool as you please and I have had the pleasure of spending some time with him in Central Otago, having a gad about, tasting some wine and trying not to make a nuisance of myself. He is a good guy and cares deeply about the wine making process.
Back to this - It has a nice light salmon peachy colour to it but the great joy, first of all is the nose. It is a heady blend of guava, ginger, spiced quince and allspice. It's like a tropical rose, but not. There is a light mineral hint on the nose, almost like that smell of water running across dry rocks. If the wine is as complex as the nose, I am in.
The palate gives me so much - creamy and moussy, incredibly smooth and with a crunchy acidity. There is an apricot and almond note here, influenced no doubt by predominant gewurtz grape, as well as the likes of nectarines, Victoria plums and a little dried fruit and honey. Its a fruit explosion but its not sweet - there acidity balances the sweetness which really gives this an incredible mouthfeel, gripping cheeks and gums and lingering to a long, tight yet slightly fleshy finish.
This is clearly a fun project for Alan, and it shows. It is not trying to be too serious and is something you can enjoy today, and tomorrow. I also expect it will become bolder over time, given a year or two if you need.
A splendid wine, very right for the times and something which seems like it was made on purpose for spicy Asian influenced food. It's yum.
RRP $35 - try a good independent or get it online
NZ | 2019 | Central Otago | 12%