Surely, there is something kind of illegal combining Riesling, Gewurtztraminer and Gruner Veltliner together for shits and giggles, and it tasting this good? No, says Andrew (AJ) Hoadley of La Violetta. Here is the 2020 Ye-Ye Blanc. He has never been afraid of experimentation and this is a ripping examples of his sense of adventure. Hoadley will flout convention, but his experience in numerous Australian regions, along with time in Italy and the US developed some intensely clever wine making skills.
La Violetta began producing small quantities of wine at Denmark, on Western Australia’s south coast, in 2008. Grapes are sourced from a handful of trusted growers with exceptional vineyards, some amongst the oldest in the state. The idea is to keep production at a small scale so that each wine is crafted with care.
Lets start with the quality of the riesling at the heart of this blend, from a vineyard 15 km south-west of Mt Barker. The immediate hit is pure floral intensity, with suggestions of jasmine and citrus flowers, grapefruit and lemongrass, and the addition of the other aromatics bring differing ideas to the table. The textural complexity and aromatic punch are tempered by some old vine gewurtz, and notes of ginger and lychee make their presence known as does some crispy nashi pear and some white pepper spice.
This is a very clever wine, its sophisticated, with great finesse and daring, but is also loads of fun, and really crisp and bright. It's refreshing but not in a way to detract from its cleverness. There is a hint of skin contact here which makes it a bit crunchy showing fruit intensity, purity and drive. A lovely long lean acidic finish with some savoury notes to round it out. This may well be my new summer every day drinking wine - perfect with some skin on seared salmon and as Asian salad, or as we did with a lump of aged English Red Leicester cheese.
Hoadley has a number of labels he produces under and is well worth following and subscribing to his mailing list.
RRP $36
WA | 2020 | Denmark | 12.6% ABV