I've always been a fan of what Neil Prentice has set out to do. Is he a little unorthodox? Yes, and that's what I love about him. Generous, kind and dancing to the beat of his own drum is what makes him who he is. I have written previously about his Studebaker Pinot Noir and have had the Pinot Gris from Holly's Garden on the tasting bench for a bit.
This has a belting big aroma, loaded with notes of ripe brown pears, golden delicious apple, honeysuckle and orange blossom, with something very white peach bellini about it. There's a note of ginger ther as well. It is rather intriguing and I imagine the lees has led to that almost bread and yeast like character you'd find in a champagne...Fun!
After a moment in the glass, you discover a rich, fragrant wine with a bright lifted palate and a very elegant and sophisticated quality to it. It's really, intensely fruit driven but at the same time, its loaded with texture, maybe in part because its biodynamic, maybe in part because Neil knows what he is doing when it comes to the grape. In his own words "biodynamic practices are pursued, not for altruistic reasons, but to make better wine by growing better grapes." Makes very good sense to me.
Great length and generosity is equalled by a dry finish and clean, linear acidity. Everything seems to be perfectly aligned - crunchy and chewy but also light and bright, balanced and nuanced with all of the hallmarks of not just a great vintage but a deft hand in the making. Its unlike most of the PG's we have been drinking already this summer - somehow less watery and more intense. I think this is what Pinot Gris should taste like and how it should be made.
Its fancy enough to impress the most strident of critics, yet affordable enough to be drank often. If we awarded stars, this would be nudging 5 of 5. I bloody love it.
RRP $30
VIC | 2021 | Gippsland | 12.5% ABV