Commune of Buttons 2019 Clover
Siblings Jasper and Sophie Button returned home a few years ago to help save their family vineyard, planted primarily to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay 20 years ago. They have converted the wine making and growing processes to be biodynamic and organic focused, resulting in more natural funky wines.
The Clover is a Chardonnay but not as we know it Jim. The wines are made naturally, with minimal intervention, minimal sulphur and unrushed ferments - allowing the wines to develop their own character. There is a definite new style of chardonnay made this way without any of the big buttery oiliness or overly confected yeasty wines of old.
The nose has an oxidative punch first up, then it is all yellow peaches and apricots, albeit with a little funk. Lively, chewy and fresh with a savoury, lees derived structure. It is rich and full, but still balanced by a clean, whip like acidity with notes of crunchy pink lady apples and singularly focused velvet like tannis. It's a surprising wine with a sophistication about it while it is absolutely on trend with where the natural movement is taking us.
This is one of those wines which can be a little divise, especially for those who are not fans of chardonnay. The particular person I shared this with had previously told me he didn't like chardonnay at all but he bought it and so I suggest like many he could be a convert. I know I am and will be drinking loads more of Commune of Buttons wines.
RRP $42 from independents like Blackhearts and Sparrows
SA | 2019 | Adelaide Hills | 13% ABV